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Nine Birds a-Calling

January 2, 2012 By Sarah Maliphant

For years I have been challenged to distinguish between the large black birds – Ravens, Crows, Jackdaws, Rooks – plus other large birds of prey…and light aircraft.

Let’s start with the easy one: Birds with sunlight glinting off windows or making engine noise are light aircraft. Just be particularly careful with Gliders in cloudy conditions.

As for the various large black birds …

Large Black Bird sighted.. Um...

Very often a bird’s call is the first alert to their presence, and an easier way of distinguishing them if you wish to. The RSPB website has a great page for each critter – click on the Play button at the top to hear the what the bird sounds like, and there’s pictures aplenty. I’ve included the link for each bird here, like so: Kestrel.  So welcome to this the first ever More to… guide to Big Mountain Bird Identification!

Kestrel
These are the guys that hover infeasibly in one spot, often by the side of roads but also up in the hills. Lovely red, white and grey colouring, similar to a Red Kite, but they’re way smaller. Kestrel

Buzzard
Widespread, distinctive call, and the visual clues are i) They’re Big ii) They fly the easy way so you’re most likely to see them soaring on a thermal. They don’t flap. iii) You’ll see their white undercarriage, white feathers under their wings. Buzzard

Peregrine Falcon
Not so common, but you may hear one of these around a cliffy area.
Peregrine

Red Kite
Red Kites are now spreading rapidly after the most mind bogglingly successful re-introduction programme. Red Kites kindly have a very easy visual profile – their tale has a marked scoop inwards and they are, of course, rather red-looking. Plenty around the M40, Reading and spreading throughout Wales. Red Kite

Golden Eagle
Is it huge? Are you in the Scottish Highlands? Or a Bird of Prey Sanctuary? Then it could be a Golden Eagle. Our biggest bird of prey, absolutely majestic – get thyself to the Highlands to see one! There are no wild Golden Eagles in Wales or England at the time of writing. Golden Eagle

OK, now for the Big Black Birds….

Raven
I call these Flying Pigs, because frankly, that’s what they sound like. Large, black, and mostly found in mountainous areas, they’re the ones that oink at you. Visual clues – they’re Big, and if you can see their tail it’s a definite diamond shape.  Raven

Rooks

Big, black and with a very pale coloured beak and feathery coulottes. These guys hang out in groups, so a solo big black bird is unlikely to be a Rook.  Rook

Crow
Yep, large and black. Very similar to Rooks, but these prefer to be solo or maybe in a pair…usually! Sometimes they are in larger groups too though. Um. They also have less feathery legs, and a darker beak, if you’re in a position to see such details! Familiar farm field call. Less common in mountains. Crow

Jackdaw
Oh dear – also largish and black. But a totally different call and they are smaller than the others, with a grey hood which is helpful if you’re close enough to see it. Jackdaw

One last comparison for luck:
Raven Rook Crow Jackdaw

So there you go, if you want to know the name of what you’re hearing or looking at, that’s how. If you’re not that bothered, my other favourite identification method is extremely simple:

“What’s that?”

“It’s a bird.”

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How to buy walking boots you love

May 4, 2011 By Sarah Maliphant

Last year my fabulously comfortable walking boots officially reached the point being worn to shreds. We’d done thousands of miles together. It was time for new boots.

Officially worm to shreds
Before...

Buying new boots has been an interesting process for me over the years. From the first pair of fabric boots (they got very wet, I put them a little too close to the camp fire…), I’ve been through the pair that were a smidge too small (ouch!), a brief foray with a pair that had very high ankle support (yuk), a second fabric pair that fell apart far too quickly, and finally to the deleriously comfortable pair that retired last year after so many miles, simply worn out.

There’s been much boot related learning. My current boots, and the preceding retired pair have been a major success, a pinnacle of instant comfort, value and experience.

So whether you’re thinking of getting some walking boots for the first time, or are facing the imminent replacement of your well-worn uber comfortable boots, here’s a reminder of just how to get boots that quickly feel like home!

... After

More to… Buying Walking Boots You’ll Love

1) Socks first – wear the socks you’ll be walking in. This should be proper walking socks, and maybe liner socks too which help wick moisture away and can give added comfort.

2) Choose your shop – Quality of advice is important when you’re investing in boots. If you can find an outdoor shop where the staff actually go walking a lot and have great product knowledge, that’ll help. Find one with a good range of brands, and see if they’ve got a little downhill slope gizmo in the store for you to test out walking uphill/downhill. Ask around locally for good outdoor shops, or consider travelling a little way to get to one with a good range. My personal favourite place for boot shopping is Ambleside, there are so many great gear shops, so many really skilled retailers. In Surrey, Lansdale is a hidden gem – not exactly a shop but you can buy online if you know what you want, visit them to try stuff on, great prices and they’re incredibly helpful.

3) Expectations – these days you can expect walking boots to be comfortable from the moment you put them on. You don’t have to settle for less so make sure you seek true comfort. The source of hillside blisters is often an, “Oh, those will do….” moment in a gear shop.

4) Leather or Fabric? – Your choice, but in the UK if you want to walk a fair bit my personal recommendation is leather boots. We have lots of green because there’s lots of rain. Leather boots take that in their stride, and last for a long, long, long time. Many people carry a bias against leather boots because of dodgy experiences attempting to “wear in” stiff and uncomfortable boots in the past. Things have moved on, you can expect better. And the weight of leather boots is scarcely noticeable once you’re walking. Fabric boots are lighter though, and good quality ones will be waterproof. I’ve just found that they wear out quicker, and in really soggy weather I’ve stayed drier in my leather boots. As usual – your choice. Whether you choose leather or fabric outer, look out for boots with a Goretex lining – added waterproofing and comfort.

5) Basic features – Make sure the top few lacings on your boots are hooks or D rings, not eyelets that need threading or you’ll go nuts every time you put your boots on. Check the tongue padding which should be thick enough for you not to feel the laces. Check the sole – plenty of good chunky grip. Check the top of the ankle cuff – should be soft and pliable and when you try it on, at a comfortable height for that knobbly ankle bone.

6) Width Fit – This is the important bit. Some brands have quite a narrow fit. Others like Meindl and less-known but fabulous Hanwag have a broader fit, might not suit very petite feet. Try on different types to get a feel for how the width suits you. Walk around the shop, use the downhill slope gizmo in the shop – great to check how the boots feel on a slope. (Downhill slope gizmo is a small ramp in the shop – lets you feel what the boots are like walking up and down a slope.)

7) Length Fit – Once you’ve found a boot that suits your ankle and width of foot, length sizing is easier. Start by trying on a boot that’s your normal shoe size. Take the insole out, stand on it with your heel lined up with the heel-end of the insole, and there should be about a finger width gap (1.5cm) between the end of your toes and the end of the insole. Less than that, you’re going to get numb toes going down hill. More than that, you might slop about in your boots and get blisters. Half a size too big or too small makes loads of difference. When you think you’re there, top tip is to try out next size up and next size down – just to check the one you’ve picked feels best.

8 ) Colour – Hey, who said this had to be all serious? If you find any good boots in radical colours let me know. Otherwise, set your sights on traditional brown, solid black, or a slightly radical charcoal or navy.

9) Final adjustments– bear in mind that the lacing can make the last subtle differences for you. Check the tightness of the main foot area. If the boots feel too tight around the ankle, loosen the lacing there and put a locking lace (half bow) at the joint between ankle and foot to keep your foot secure whilst your ankle has more freedom to move.

10) Ultimately – all the above is just a starting point, the best possible guide is that your feet feel comfortable when you walk around the shop, and walk up and down their slopey gizmo. So if you’re in the store with your walking socks and brand new boots on and your feet are going, “Mmm…alright!” then buy them. Take them home, do some laps of the lounge, the stairs, the bedroom. Sit and watch TV in them, then walk around more. Put them on the next day, do all that again. When you’re really sure, snip that label off and celebrate the start of a long and happy relationship. (For me, this is the point where I go out and find a large muddy puddle to introduce the boots to the real world).

11) Cost How much will boots cost? There’s a good variety on the market. Prices are generally £70 and upwards, and can easily be £120 – £150: but depending on the kind of walking you do, your boots can last you for 10 years or more with a little basic care.

My last pair of boots (Hanwags) did over 2000 miles in the Welsh mountains, Highlands, Himalayas, Andes, Alps, and Surrey countrside. They scrambled, ambled, handled altitude and occasionally yomped if we were close to a pub at the end of the day. Well worth it! And now? They’ve retired from walking, but are still very much in use!

Old boots never die, they just get replanted

I wish you and your boots every happiness!!

Sarah Maliphant, www.more-to.org

Relax, recharge, walk, talk, get pampered and eat home cooked food in the Welsh mountains near Hay-on-Wye.

Capel-y-ffin, Mystery

December 21, 2010 By Sarah Maliphant

BBC2 Wales has a wonderful Secret Wales programme, one episode of which has a 10 minute segment about Capel-y-ffin. Recommended viewing if you ever get a chance to watch it!

Part 1 described the route up from lovely Hay-on-Wye. introduced the valley, and part 2 told the story of some of the characters of Capel-y-ffin. Here’s the third and final part of the feature…

St. Mary’s Chapel, Capel-y-ffin

Presenter, Sara Edwards:

“Little has changed in Capel-y-ffin since Eric Gil and his commune left in 1928.

Father Richard Williams is the parish priest here.

Capel-y-ffin in Welsh obviously means Chapel on the Border or the Boundary. We are very close to Offa’s Dyke here, so geographically it could suggest the fact that we’re on the border between Wales and England. But what do you think it means?”

Father Richard:

“Well there are all kinds of boundaries which subsist here. It’s a border place between England and Wales and many other types of border. But the most significant border is the one between this world and the next.

It’s a place of possibility. It’s a place where you can breathe more deeply. It’s a place where understanding happens. There is mystery here. Capel-y-ffin is as some people call it a thin place, a place where the diaphanous membrane between this world and the next meet.

There is something very significant about this place and hence the very significant people who have been attracted here.”

Sarah Edwards:

“Capel-y-ffin, what does it really mean? Is it the border between Wales and England or could it possibly allude to the border between this world and the next? Perhaps it’s whatever you want it to be. But if you haven’t yet been here, it’s worth the pilgrimage.”

Transcribed from BBC 2 Wales, Secret Wales.

Visit www.more-to.org for details of holidays in this beautiful valley and enjoy a bit of tranquil timelessness for yourself.

There’s more to life than increasing its speed.

Capel-y-ffin Monastery

December 21, 2010 By Sarah Maliphant

BBC2 Wales has a wonderful Secret Wales programme, one episode of which has a 10 minute segment about Capel-y-ffin, just 1 mile from Castle Farm. Recommended viewing if you ever get a chance to watch it!

In the meantime, you can see a transcription of the segment here. Part 1 decribed the stunning route up from Hay-on-Wye to Capel-y-ffin. Here, Sara Edwards describes some of those who have come under the spell of this remote area…

Presenter Sara Edwards:

“One of the first people to come under the spell of Capel-y-ffin was Joseph Lester Lynn, who was known as Father Ignatius. He built the monastery here in 1870 and tried – unsuccessfully – to reintroduce the monastic tradition to the Anglican Church.

The Monastery, Capel-y-ffin

Many years later, in 1924, the monastery was bought by the artist, sculptor and calligrapher Eric Gill, who set up a commune here. This included his vast family, and other artists such as the poet and painter, David Jones.

Life here was basic, there was no electricity and it would have been considerably more remote in the 1920s than it is now. But it was that very remoteness that attracted Gill. There was plenty of stone here for sculpting and the only visitors here were a doctor who came here on horseback once a week, and a postman.

Gill had an unconventional lifestyle that was more than a little controversial, and the privacy and seclusion of Capel-y-ffin suited him.

Local historian:

“I think what Eric Gill was trying to do was flee from modern industrial society. What attracted him to the valley was that there were sort of mountain walls on each side, he was completely enclosed. It was kind of like a fortress in which he could live his rather special kind of life.

The Ewyas valley

For David Jones it was the opportunity a) of working with Eric Gill which he was doing at the time, and b) of actually coming to live in Wales. He was Welsh on his father’s side, Cockney on his mother’s side. He’d been in the London Welsh Battalion during the first world war, had this tremendous pull towards Wales, hadn’t had the opportunity to come and live here and this provided him with that opportunity.

What Capel-y-ffin offered above all was the chance to retreat from Urban life. Gill wanted to escape the 20th century. And later he looked back at the four years he spent here as a very creative time.

There’d been of course a religious presence in the valley since the beginning of the twelfth century. So I think Gill responded to a kind of mystical, sort of religious feel to the landscape. I think that was apparent when he arrived here.

Capel-y-ffin Mystery

For David Jones the landscape, and also the weather, the atmosphere, the changing light that we have today, the clouds – these gave him a kind of metaphor for the creative process, that everything was a bit sort of obscure and transformative.

He also responded very much to the difficulty of the life here. He’d been in the trenches in the first world war, and in a way living at the Monastery at Capel was rather like the trenches, the same hardships. They used to dine with greatcoats, by candlelight. The Gill women would weave clothing and the water supply for the monastery was the local stream that ran down the valley.”

So just living here would have been quite difficult in itself?

“Tremendously difficult, yes tremendously but tremendously exciting.

And for Gill the interesting thing was that it gave him the reason for living in the way in which he wanted to live. Not in a twentieth century way, no electric light, no advertising he wanted to live a simple quasi-medieval existence. And the remoteness of this place, the lack of electricity, gave him the opportunity to do that.”

Mountain Ponies above Capel-y-ffin

And yet they all eventually left, they didn’t stay here?

“Yes they left, Capel was simply too far from London, from what he needed as a functioning artist.”

Next: Part 3 Capel-y-ffin, border and mystery

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Visit www.more-to.org for more about this beautiful valley and enjoy a bit of tranquil timelessness for yourself.

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