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The Black Mountains in March

December 7, 2012 By Sarah Maliphant

I find early season walking particularly exciting … daylight gradually extending, bright sunshine on the wintered slopes and the weather can vary from deep winter to Lets Have Breakfast Outside at the drop of a bobble hat.

Last year, we enjoyed the Breakfast Outside sort of week:

I spent St. David’s Day grinning madly all over the route from Capel-y-ffin to Bal Mawr. March 1st gave of its best!

Walking along towards Twmpa aka Lord Hereford’s Knob, the mountain ponies were enjoying the early Spring warmth too.


And this chap was wonderful!



Crisp mornings continued all week, my early morning mug of tea accompanied by a mesmerizing vapour show at the farm.





The sheer exhilaration of the mountains is there whether you get sunny days or wild days or something in between. So if you know you’re going to be hungry for a fix of hills after the winter, go for it!

Black Mountains in March
Black Mountains in March

http://www.more-to.org
More to… Mountain Retreats
Relaxing guided walks, space to think, massage/reflexology, and a lot of lovely, local home cooked food
Season opens March 27th 2015

We support Crickhowell Walking Festival February 28th – March 8th

Eight Big Wow Walks

January 1, 2012 By Sarah Maliphant

What, just eight?!!! Good lord…well let’s call this the first eight then. These walks were particularly full of stunningness, an epiphany or too and a smidge of adventure…

The Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
I fancied a big walk, and this delivered in ways I hadn’t imagined! The seeds of More to… appeared on this three week trek, just walking each day and camping at night (with a slightly ludicrous degree of luxury provided by our Sherpas). The most inspiring scenery, people and peace I had encountered and a turning point for me.


Llanthony Priory, Black Mountains

Many of you will know this one…. I have been gently taking groups around this little circuit for 10 years now. The ascent is still a stunner in all kinds of unexpected ways. And the moment where Llanthony comes into view makes me smile every time.

The Nantlle Ridge and Snowdon
This was a wonderful mountain epic, guiding with my Mountain Mentor and outrageous friend Bob. The Nantlle ridge is a bristly number south of Snowdon, with six peaks and amazing views, plus some slightly tricky sections. We trotted along that, and got to the base of Snowdon at about 3pm on a summer’s day, then shinned up and over Snowdon to be picked up at Pen-y-pass. A Fabulous mountain day, concluded with a lot of food and quite a few drinks.

The Knoydart Peninsula, Highlands
My first solo wildcamping trip, taking the ferry from Mallaig to the Knoydart Peninsula and walking back through the valleys and passes. Memorable for utter freedom, exhilaration, a great deal of rain and the joy of handling everything with absolute confidence.

Maesglase, Snowdonia
This little know summit lies in the edges of the Cadair Idris range in Snowdonia. It’s one I’m particularly fond of, although I still haven’t actually stood on the official summit yet, as it has moved! I had a very excited scamper up there last August, bog hopping, gazing at the wonderful Big Hills and relishing the first trip to Snowdonia for a couple of years.

Newlands Corner, Guildford
Back to the local Surrey Hills, scenic location for our monthly More to… taster walks. For several years myself and a walking friend have enjoyed a night walk and midnight picnic around Newlands on New Years Eve, ending with a bottle of champagne and watching everyone’s fireworks. Magic, daft, and a lovely way to celebrate!


The Cwfry Arete, Cadair Idris

Another Bob induced epic, this time because I said I wanted to discover what a Grade III scramble was like (*). No photos, as I was rather focused on calmly climbing up the precipitous ridge. A Grade III scramble does not actually count as a walk (it’s effectively the easiest grade of climb, and a rope may be needed for protection on trickier moves). I recall quite a few leg trembles. But boy, was that a great feeling at the top!!!

(*) For those of you that know the cake scale I use for grading walks, this would be about a 10 Caker!

Ewyas Valley, Black Mountains
This walk is magic every time. I’m also pretty sure it’s the walk I’ve done most often. Views of the highest degree of stunningness, waterfalls, following the stream to its source, more views, more magic – it’s my walk of choice so it most definitely takes a special place in this first eight Big Wow Walks.

Happy New Year! May you discover walks this year that bring you peace, excitement, insight and fulfillment – and maybe, all four at once.

Sarah x

Capel-y-ffin, Mystery

December 21, 2010 By Sarah Maliphant

BBC2 Wales has a wonderful Secret Wales programme, one episode of which has a 10 minute segment about Capel-y-ffin. Recommended viewing if you ever get a chance to watch it!

Part 1 described the route up from lovely Hay-on-Wye. introduced the valley, and part 2 told the story of some of the characters of Capel-y-ffin. Here’s the third and final part of the feature…

St. Mary’s Chapel, Capel-y-ffin

Presenter, Sara Edwards:

“Little has changed in Capel-y-ffin since Eric Gil and his commune left in 1928.

Father Richard Williams is the parish priest here.

Capel-y-ffin in Welsh obviously means Chapel on the Border or the Boundary. We are very close to Offa’s Dyke here, so geographically it could suggest the fact that we’re on the border between Wales and England. But what do you think it means?”

Father Richard:

“Well there are all kinds of boundaries which subsist here. It’s a border place between England and Wales and many other types of border. But the most significant border is the one between this world and the next.

It’s a place of possibility. It’s a place where you can breathe more deeply. It’s a place where understanding happens. There is mystery here. Capel-y-ffin is as some people call it a thin place, a place where the diaphanous membrane between this world and the next meet.

There is something very significant about this place and hence the very significant people who have been attracted here.”

Sarah Edwards:

“Capel-y-ffin, what does it really mean? Is it the border between Wales and England or could it possibly allude to the border between this world and the next? Perhaps it’s whatever you want it to be. But if you haven’t yet been here, it’s worth the pilgrimage.”

Transcribed from BBC 2 Wales, Secret Wales.

Visit www.more-to.org for details of holidays in this beautiful valley and enjoy a bit of tranquil timelessness for yourself.

There’s more to life than increasing its speed.

Capel-y-ffin Monastery

December 21, 2010 By Sarah Maliphant

BBC2 Wales has a wonderful Secret Wales programme, one episode of which has a 10 minute segment about Capel-y-ffin, just 1 mile from Castle Farm. Recommended viewing if you ever get a chance to watch it!

In the meantime, you can see a transcription of the segment here. Part 1 decribed the stunning route up from Hay-on-Wye to Capel-y-ffin. Here, Sara Edwards describes some of those who have come under the spell of this remote area…

Presenter Sara Edwards:

“One of the first people to come under the spell of Capel-y-ffin was Joseph Lester Lynn, who was known as Father Ignatius. He built the monastery here in 1870 and tried – unsuccessfully – to reintroduce the monastic tradition to the Anglican Church.

The Monastery, Capel-y-ffin

Many years later, in 1924, the monastery was bought by the artist, sculptor and calligrapher Eric Gill, who set up a commune here. This included his vast family, and other artists such as the poet and painter, David Jones.

Life here was basic, there was no electricity and it would have been considerably more remote in the 1920s than it is now. But it was that very remoteness that attracted Gill. There was plenty of stone here for sculpting and the only visitors here were a doctor who came here on horseback once a week, and a postman.

Gill had an unconventional lifestyle that was more than a little controversial, and the privacy and seclusion of Capel-y-ffin suited him.

Local historian:

“I think what Eric Gill was trying to do was flee from modern industrial society. What attracted him to the valley was that there were sort of mountain walls on each side, he was completely enclosed. It was kind of like a fortress in which he could live his rather special kind of life.

The Ewyas valley

For David Jones it was the opportunity a) of working with Eric Gill which he was doing at the time, and b) of actually coming to live in Wales. He was Welsh on his father’s side, Cockney on his mother’s side. He’d been in the London Welsh Battalion during the first world war, had this tremendous pull towards Wales, hadn’t had the opportunity to come and live here and this provided him with that opportunity.

What Capel-y-ffin offered above all was the chance to retreat from Urban life. Gill wanted to escape the 20th century. And later he looked back at the four years he spent here as a very creative time.

There’d been of course a religious presence in the valley since the beginning of the twelfth century. So I think Gill responded to a kind of mystical, sort of religious feel to the landscape. I think that was apparent when he arrived here.

Capel-y-ffin Mystery

For David Jones the landscape, and also the weather, the atmosphere, the changing light that we have today, the clouds – these gave him a kind of metaphor for the creative process, that everything was a bit sort of obscure and transformative.

He also responded very much to the difficulty of the life here. He’d been in the trenches in the first world war, and in a way living at the Monastery at Capel was rather like the trenches, the same hardships. They used to dine with greatcoats, by candlelight. The Gill women would weave clothing and the water supply for the monastery was the local stream that ran down the valley.”

So just living here would have been quite difficult in itself?

“Tremendously difficult, yes tremendously but tremendously exciting.

And for Gill the interesting thing was that it gave him the reason for living in the way in which he wanted to live. Not in a twentieth century way, no electric light, no advertising he wanted to live a simple quasi-medieval existence. And the remoteness of this place, the lack of electricity, gave him the opportunity to do that.”

Mountain Ponies above Capel-y-ffin

And yet they all eventually left, they didn’t stay here?

“Yes they left, Capel was simply too far from London, from what he needed as a functioning artist.”

Next: Part 3 Capel-y-ffin, border and mystery

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Visit www.more-to.org for more about this beautiful valley and enjoy a bit of tranquil timelessness for yourself.

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